Cosmetology: diseases — симптомы, диагностика и лечение

Wrinkles are not the only or even the earliest sign of age-related changes: along with them come loss of elasticity, uneven tone, dullness, enlarged pores, spider veins and drooping facial contours. It is fundamentally important that this process consists of two completely different parts. The first is biological aging, which is genetically determined: it happens to everyone and cannot be reversed. The second is photoaging, that is, accumulated damage to the skin from ultraviolet radiation, and it accounts for up to eighty percent of visible changes in exposed areas. Hence the conclusion, which seems unexpected to many: the most effective anti-wrinkle remedy is not a cream with a loud name, but daily sun protection, started long before the first wrinkles appear. And the second thing you should take right away: not a single cream will smooth out a deep static fold, because it is located in those layers where the external product simply does not reach.

Pigment spots are areas of the skin where more melanin has been produced than around it. Their causes are different, and treatment directly depends on this: solar lentigo, melasma and inflammation marks look similar, but behave differently and require different approaches. Melasma stands out separately - symmetrical brown spots on the forehead, cheeks and upper lip, closely related to hormonal levels: it often first appears during pregnancy or while taking hormonal contraceptives. There is one fact that determines the success of any treatment: ultraviolet light is a trigger for almost all types of hyperpigmentation, so lightening without daily sun protection is a waste of time, and sometimes even a negative one. And one more warning that is worth hearing before starting experiments: attempts to remove stains with lemon, vinegar, soda or peroxide end in a chemical burn and pigmentation, which becomes darker and more persistent than the original one.

A scar is not a healing defect, but its normal result: damaged skin is not restored the same as it was, but is replaced by dense connective tissue. The only question is how noticeable the result will be, and here it is important to distinguish between two states that are called the same in everyday life. A hypertrophic scar rises above the skin, but remains strictly within the boundaries of the former wound and usually flattens itself over time. A keloid behaves differently: it goes beyond the initial damage, creeps onto healthy skin with claws and processes, itches, hurts and almost never regresses on its own. This difference determines all tactics, because an attempt to simply excise the keloid with a scalpel in the vast majority of cases leads to its return - and often in a larger size than it was before. And the main thing that is worth knowing in advance: the result of treatment depends decisively on how early it is started - it is incomparably easier to work with a fresh scar of the first year than with an old one.

Cuperosis is persistently dilated small vessels of the skin, which become visible as red and bluish threads, stars and mesh, most often on the wings of the nose, cheeks and chin. The key word here is “persistent”: ordinary redness from frost or excitement goes away in minutes, but with rosacea, the vessel wall has already lost its tone and is not able to return to its previous diameter. This is why rosacea does not go away on its own and does not “dissolve” with creams - the dilated vessel remains dilated forever if it is not physically removed. The main method remains laser treatment, in which the vessel is sealed and ceases to be visible. At the same time, care and control of provoking factors are no less important: without them, new ones will appear in place of the removed vessels over time, because the cause of the expansion has not gone away.

Acne is a disease of the sebaceous glands and hair follicles, the most common reason for visiting a dermatologist in adolescents and young adults. Contrary to popular belief, acne does not arise from “dirty skin” or directly from sweets: it is based on excess sebum production, blockage of the duct, proliferation of the bacteria C. acnes and inflammation. Understanding this changes the tactics: aggressive washing and squeezing do not help, but correctly selected therapy eliminates rashes in almost everyone.

Acne on the back and chest is the same disease of the sebaceous glands as on the face, but in areas with particularly large and active glands. The mechanism is the same: excess sebum, thickening of the mouth of the hair follicle, proliferation of the Cutibacterium acnes bacterium and inflammation. Hence the black spots, red nodules and pustules, which are often painful and leave spots and scars. The process is stimulated by hormonal fluctuations, friction from thick clothing and a backpack, heat and sweating, fatty creams and some medications. Rashes on the body are more difficult to treat and take longer than on the face, so it is important not to press on the elements and consult a doctor in time.

An allergy to cosmetics is most often allergic contact dermatitis: a delayed immune reaction to a specific component of the product. Manifestations do not appear immediately, but 12–72 hours after contact, so the connection with a new cream or hair dye is not always noticed. The skin turns red, swells, itches, small blisters may appear, then peeling. Irritable dermatitis stands out separately: it occurs faster, without the participation of the immune system, simply from an aggressive composition or too frequent use. An important point: a reaction can develop to a product that you have used for years, because sensitivity develops gradually. The main thing in treatment is to find and remove the culprit component.

Ingrown hair is a situation when hair after shaving or epilation does not grow outward, but bends and grows into the skin or cannot penetrate its surface. In response, inflammation develops: a red painful tubercle appears, sometimes with a purulent head, itching and darkening of the skin after healing. Areas with coarse and curly hair are most often affected: the face and neck in men, the bikini area, armpits and legs in women. The condition itself is not dangerous, but it tends to return, and attempts to squeeze out the elements lead to suppuration, scars and persistent dark spots. The basis of help is the correct hair removal technique and exfoliation.

Oily skin is a skin type in which the sebaceous glands produce excess sebum. The face begins to shine within an hour or two after washing, makeup does not stick well, and the mouths of the follicles on the nose, forehead and chin become visually larger. The number of pores in a person does not change, so it is impossible to “close” them: you can only reduce their visibility by reducing sebum production and improving skin density. The main factors are heredity, hormonal levels, age and climate. Oily skin is more often prone to comedones and acne, but it has an advantage: it ages later and retains its elasticity longer. The key to results is regular gentle care rather than aggressive degreasing.

Xanthelasmas are soft yellowish plaques on the skin of the eyelids, most often at the inner corner of the eye and usually symmetrical. These are accumulations of lipid-filled cells in the superficial layers of the skin. They do not hurt, do not itch and do not turn into cancer, but they do not disappear themselves, and over time they often increase and merge. About half of people with xanthelasma have impaired fat metabolism - increased cholesterol or its “bad” fraction, so the appearance of such plaques is a good reason to check the lipid spectrum, blood sugar and assess cardiovascular risk, and not just solve the issue of cosmetics.