How it develops
Under the influence of androgens, the sebaceous glands produce more sebum. The mouth of the follicle becomes clogged with horny scales, and a comedon is formed - a black or white dot. In a closed cavity, Cutibacterium acnes multiplies, inflammation develops, and the comedone turns into a papule, then into an abscess, and in case of deep damage - into a node.
- Comedones - non-inflammatory elements, “black dots” and white tubercles
- Papules are red, inflamed bumps
- Pustules - pustules
- Nodules and cysts are deep, painful formations that leave scars
- Post-acne - spots and scars after elements have resolved
What really influences
- Hormonal fluctuations: adolescence, second phase of the cycle, PCOS
- Heredity - if your parents suffered from acne, the likelihood is higher
- Cosmetics with comedogenic ingredients, thick foundation
- Mechanical friction: masks, helmets, straps, habit of resting your face with your hand
- Some drugs: anabolic steroids, lithium, glucocorticosteroids
- Foods with a high glycemic index and, according to some data, skim milk - the effect is moderate and individual
Treatment by degree
- Лёгкое (комедоны, единичные воспаления): наружные ретиноиды, бензоила пероксид, азелаиновая кислота.
- Среднее (множественные папулы и пустулы): комбинация наружных препаратов, при необходимости антибиотик внутрь курсом до 3 месяцев обязательно вместе с бензоила пероксидом.
- Тяжёлое (узлы, кисты, рубцы): изотретиноин внутрь — самый эффективный препарат, назначается и контролируется только врачом.
- У женщин дополнительно могут применяться комбинированные оральные контрацептивы и антиандрогены по показаниям.
Important expectation: results will not be visible until after 6–8 weeks, and temporary deterioration may occur in the first 2–4 weeks. Quitting treatment at this stage is the most common mistake.
Proper care
- Washing with a mild product twice a day - no more often: aggressive cleansing increases sebum production
- No alcohol lotions or scrubs for inflamed skin
- Non-comedogenic moisturizing - against the background of retinoids, the skin dries out, and without cream the treatment is poorly tolerated
- Sun protection is mandatory: retinoids increase sensitivity to UV, and the sun worsens post-acne pigment spots
- Do not squeeze: squeezing deepens inflammation and turns the spot into a scar
- Change your pillowcase daily, clean your phone screen
Post-acne
Once the rash resolves, red or brown spots and scars often remain. The spots go away on their own within months; sun protection and azelaic acid help speed up the process. Scars require separate treatment.
- Chemical peels for superficial changes
- Fractional laser and microneedling for atrophic scars
- Subcision for retracted scars
- Injections for keloid scars
- Scar correction begins only after complete control of active acne