Dandruff and seborrheic dermatitis: what's the difference?
Normally, epidermal cells renew themselves in about a month and peel off imperceptibly, one at a time. With the seborrheic process, the renewal is sharply accelerated, the cells do not have time to fully mature and are separated by layers glued together with sebum. This is how visible scales appear. If there is little inflammation, a person sees only white flakes on the shoulders - this is dandruff. If redness, itching, and yellowish greasy crusts are added, we are talking about seborrheic dermatitis, and it often extends beyond the scalp.
The division into “dry” and “oily” seborrhea, familiar from everyday conversations and advertising, is quite arbitrary. We are not talking about two different diseases, but about how much the scales are saturated with sebum: in the so-called dry form they are small, white and easily fall off onto the shoulders, in the oily form they are large, yellowish and sticky, holding on to the skin. The mechanism in both cases is the same, and the treatment is not fundamentally different. It is important to understand this, because it is from the division into “dry” and “oily” that the main harmful advice arose - to moisturize what actually needs to be cleansed.
- Dandruff - small dry or greasy flakes, little or no itching, skin not red
- Seborrheic dermatitis of the scalp - pink and red spots with flaking, noticeable itching, sometimes yellow crusts
- Favorite places besides the head: eyebrows and bridge of the nose, wings of the nose and nasolabial folds, behind the ears and in the ear canal, beard and mustache, center of the chest, between the shoulder blades
- The course is chronic, undulating: exacerbations alternate with periods of calm
- Exacerbations are typical in autumn and winter, and in the summer in the sun the condition often improves
What does fungus have to do with it?
Malassezia is a yeast-like fungus that lives in the mouths of the sebaceous glands of almost every adult and normally does not cause any inconvenience. It cannot synthesize the fatty acids it needs and therefore breaks down sebum, taking some components for itself and leaving others on the skin - free fatty acids that have an irritating effect. In people with hypersensitive skin, this triggers inflammation and accelerated renewal of the epidermis.
- The disease develops not from the fact that the fungus has “started up”, but from the individual reaction of the skin to its metabolic products
- Therefore, seborrhea is not contagious: dandruff cannot be transmitted through a comb, towel or hat
- The activity of the sebaceous glands depends on hormones, hence the peak of the problem in adolescence and in adult men
- Antifungal agents work precisely because they reduce the number of Malassezia, and not because they “dry out”
- It is neither possible nor necessary to completely remove fungus from the skin - the goal of treatment is to keep it under control
The Myth of Dry Scalp
Almost every person with dandruff has at least once heard the advice: “Your scalp is dry, mine less often and lubricate it with oil.” This advice almost always makes the situation worse. Firstly, with seborrhea, the sebaceous glands usually work normally or excessively, and the feeling of dryness is created by scales and inflammation, and not by a lack of oil. Secondly, vegetable oils and fatty masks are literally a breeding ground for Malassezia, which lives off lipids. Thirdly, infrequent washing allows sebum and scales to accumulate, increasing both itching and inflammation.
- If you have seborrhea, you can and should wash your hair often - at least daily, if it is comfortable; Frequent washing does not increase oiliness
- Oil wraps, burdock and coconut oil are usually harmful for seborrheic dermatitis
- A feeling of tightness often indicates irritation and too aggressive shampoo, rather than dryness.
- Hard water itself does not cause dandruff, although it can increase discomfort.
- Dandruff is not associated with uncleanliness: it occurs in people who wash their hair daily
- Scratching and tearing off scales with nails increases inflammation and provokes the addition of bacteria
What causes exacerbations
- Psycho-emotional stress and lack of sleep are one of the most noticeable triggers; exacerbation often occurs one to two weeks after a stressful period
- Cold season, dry heating air, wearing thick hats
- Hormonal fluctuations, adolescence
- Excess simple carbohydrates and alcohol in the diet - the connection is not direct, but many patients note it
- Aggressive shampoos, varnishes, foams, frequent coloring
- Rare washing and attempts to treat your hair with oils
- Concomitant diseases and taking medications that reduce immune defense
Understanding your own triggers is important because seborrheic dermatitis is a chronic condition. The realistic goal of treatment is not to “get rid of it forever,” but to put the disease into long-term remission and know how to quickly extinguish an exacerbation when it does begin.
When it's not dandruff at all
Peeling of the scalp is caused not only by seborrhea, and it is not always possible to distinguish the conditions by eye. A mistake here is costly: for example, a fungal infection received from an animal, when treated with ordinary dandruff shampoo, will quietly progress and lead to persistent baldness in the area.
- Psoriasis of the scalp - dense plaques with silvery scales, often extending beyond the hairline to the forehead and neck; There are often changes in the nails and rashes on the elbows and knees
- Microsporia and trichophytosis are a contagious fungus, most often in children and from cats and dogs: a rounded lesion with peeling and hair broken off near the skin. Requires Wood's lamp examination, scraping, and systemic treatment
- Atopic dermatitis - severe itching, dryness, damage to the folds, usually begins in childhood
- Contact dermatitis - a reaction to hair dye, shampoo, mask; appears after changing the product
- Pediculosis - nits are firmly glued to the hair and do not shake off, unlike dandruff flakes
- Folliculitis and abscess lesions are painful pustules that require different treatment
Medicinal shampoos: composition and how to use correctly
A medicated shampoo is not a cosmetic, but an external medicinal product, and it only works when used correctly. There are several key active ingredients, and they act in different ways: some suppress the fungus, others reduce inflammation, and others dissolve dense scales.
- Ketoconazole and other antifungal agents - act directly on Malassezia, the basis of treatment
- Ciclopirox - antifungal action in combination with anti-inflammatory
- Zinc pyrithione is an antifungal and antibacterial component, well tolerated
- Selenium disulfide - reduces peeling and fungal growth
- Salicylic acid - dissolves and exfoliates thick crusts, helps other components penetrate the skin
- Coal tar - reduces flaking, useful when combined with psoriasis
- External anti-inflammatory drugs - prescribed by the doctor in a short course for severe inflammation
- Наносите шампунь на кожу головы, а не на длину волос: лечится кожа, а не волосы.
- Распределите средство подушечками пальцев по всей поверхности, включая затылок и область за ушами, которую обычно пропускают.
- Выдержите не менее трёх-пяти минут. Это тот самый шаг, который пропускают чаще всего, и именно из-за него средство «не работает».
- Тщательно смойте; при необходимости вымойте длину обычным мягким шампунем.
- В период обострения применяйте лечебный шампунь 2-3 раза в неделю, обычно 3-4 недели.
- После стихания симптомов не бросайте: переходите на поддерживающий режим — примерно раз в неделю или раз в две недели, длительно.
- При привыкании и снижении эффекта имеет смысл чередовать средства с разными действующими веществами по схеме, подобранной врачом.
Conventional anti-dandruff cosmetic shampoos from the mass market contain the same substances, but often in significantly lower concentrations, and therefore are suitable for maintaining the result, and not for treating an exacerbation. Washing your hair with them instead of a remedy is about the same as treating pneumonia with cough drops: pleasant, but essentially useless. A reasonable scheme looks like this: first, a course of medication until the symptoms subside, then a long-term maintenance regimen, and between uses, any mild shampoo to taste. And one more detail that is almost never talked about: with seborrheic dermatitis, all affected areas need to be treated, not just the head. If you ignore the eyebrows, wings of the nose and the area behind the ears, the feeling of incomplete results will remain.